When it dries the paper will be lovely orange tone. If you need more green (to counter a stronger red tint) the easiest way is to look for a stain product that has … Purple, pink or taupe-toned woods. It is water based. Red-toned woods can often flex red-purple or red-pink (pink being the lighter version of red). I was going to use quarter sawn white oak vs. quarter sawn red oak. The next step for the floor would be 2 coats of "street shoe". A few of these are cutting it close, but the general idea is there. Then, I would work with a designer who specializes in color for a color consult. Red and green mix to brown. A lower sheen level hides a lot, and I found in my case it even knocks down the red. I needed something to neutralize the red … The kitchen floor is only two years old. Sorry if this makes no sense. I am wondering if there’s a way to tone down the red in the wood. Both are red oak, but the original floor in its raw state had a more red tone to it, while the kitchen floor had a more pink/orange tone to it. Red-toned woods. The floor looks gorgeous BUT in certain light looks a little pinkish or red to us. I also … At first, I didn’t even notice that it looks like they left the original hardware on the cabinets in the photo above. I know some of you must have some oak cabinets that you’ve been wanting to change. The red oak naturally has a brownish cinnamon tone (I'm not a fan) and the oil based polyurethanes (stink to high heaven and take ages to cure) naturally turn orange (we call it ambering). And because I already shared all of the info for staining oak over on my Staining/Painting an OAK Banister post, take a peek over there first to see how to best stain your oak cabinets. But in short, it’s easy (no sanding or top coat), it makes your cabinets look and feel new and clean, and it brought out the natural woodgrain. Ft. of 4/4 and 10 Bd. That would be first on my list to investigate. I am working with the floor guy to maybe tint the street shoe with a green/brown color to tone down the red in the floor (but not change the color). 1/2 Weathered Oak to 1/2 Classic Gray; 3/4 Classic Gray to 1/4 Jacobean; Jacobean; None of these really gave me the look I wanted from the cedar. From your testing I realized I can use the red oak since my stain although not as dark as the jacobean will make seeing the difference in white vs. Red oak undetectable. To tone them down and bring them more into the realm of brown, I waxed them with Briwax in Tudor Brown (check out this post for more details). Weathered oak and and Classic Gray did not cover the red in the cedar enough. Jacobean was way too dark. But also, this was another patch job. More traditional colors like yellow-gold or red can tend to make oak cabinets even more yellow but a deep gray will tone that down. It was 61 and my table was 91.I killed the sheen on my table, and there was the color Maybe you could try to knock down the sheen. I decided to get out the sheen meter and check the sheen of the sample board. Well, now you know, it totally works!!! Ft. of 6/4. Raw umber has a slight greenish tint to it and will make a very subtle shift toward the brown tones from the reddish side. Again, totally different woods but very consistent undertones… Some gorgeous, more purple-inspired stain colours… It's true. The living room floor is part of the original hardwood floor that’s almost 70 years old. You can take the finish and brush it on a piece of white paper. I’m going to need approximately 20 Bd. That beginning line has been percolating in my head. With a designer who specializes in color for a color consult when it dries the will. Knocks down the red step for the floor looks gorgeous but in certain light looks little. 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